Challenge #7: Tops & Toes

Beribboned Caps

...focuses on accessories: specifically those that go on top of your head...(http://thedreamstress.com/2014/01/the-hsf-14-challenge-7-tops-and-toes/)

I have bought these patterns a long time ago, but it never seemed to be the right time to do at least one of those caps. But I had scrap thin linen laying around (I was too lazy to clean it up) so I thought this would be the time to test those patterns. I have no idea, if these kind on caps were worn here in Finland, but they are very basic caps, so they can't be totally wrong... 

And for the record for my self - do not add seam allowance! The patterns already have them, I added so that's why they don't look the way they should, but on the other hand, they fit on my big head!

"Martha"

Pattern was made after the painting of Mme Trottier, 1793. In that painting the cap was linen or cotton and the ruffle was something shearer fabric.

I made "Martha" first since it had the most perfect look for a grandmother-aged woman (which I should be and I should behave like one too, maybe the cap will help). The pattern was easy, but the ruffle part was too short to pleat to look like in the pattern picture, I couldn't make as many pleats as in the picture. And there are some other issues too, but my cap looks just as grandmother-ly as in the pattern cover picture. But I think I will remove the ruffle and do it again - some day.... The cap in made of fine linen, sewn with waxed linen thread, all hand sewn.

"Caroline"

This pattern was made after the painting Turkey plucker by H. Walton. The painting was exhipited 1776 - so there is a little problem about these patterns being from 1780-1810... In the painting the pleats are much more loose and to my eye there is quite big gap in the back between ruffle ends. And it looks like there is a shearer ruffle under the pleeted one.

I made the cap almost as the instructions said, but I made lace ruffle, not linen. So totally not suitable for a cooking made, but I promise not to pluck turkeys when wearing this cap. The cap looks nice, but not suitable for my goal to look like a grandmother - but this is a cap I will totally wear one day. The crown and the band is thin linen, but the lace is polyester or something very not at all historically accurate. It's hand sewn with waxed linen thread.

"Georgiana"

This pattern was made after the satirical etching Two Penny Whist (1796). I'm not sure if the picture and the pattern match, but I like it anyway. The satirical picture has a very huge ribbon and rosette, I like it a little smaller....  

This cap was made in one hour using sewing machine (the ruffle hem is hand sewn) and the fabric is cotton-poly blend. It is ok to wear when the main thing is to cover your head to be chaste enough, but it wont give me the granny look... and it's not historically accurate to wear if your other clothes are accurate....

The Challenge: #7 Tops and Toes

What the item is? Three Beribboned Caps

Fabric: linen (first two), cotton-poly blend (third)

Pattern: Coutry wives Beribboned Caps

Year: 1780-1810

Notions: linen thread and bee wax, cotton thread (third cap), polyester (or something) lace

How historically accurate is it? Patterns should be ok, but it seems I wasn't looking the instructions close enough (seam allowances). If seam allowances were correct, the first is made as said in the instructions, the second as well (except the lace-ruffle) but the third is machine sewn and the fabric is poly-cotton. All the ribbons are just for the photo shoot....

Hours to complete: about three hours/ cap - yep, I'm getting faster with my sewing skills!! The last one took about one hour - only the hem is hand sewn.... The caps were made on time, I just was too busy to add the here and hsf-fb-page.

First worn: just testing - at least the first one gives me the real "martha" look - being over 40 means I would have been grandmother and should have looked like one too :-DDD

Total cost: all stash

Vandela maid getting dressed

Red velvet bodice and matching pocket

All hand sewn with waxed linen thread. The bodice is cotton velvet and lining is cotton (sheet), so not excatly historically accurate for a maid but perhaps the bodice was given her by a lady of means. The pocket is the same material, and yes - the pocket was worn outside! (the lady would keep her pockets inside but not the maids....). She also has a little key for her bridal coffer - there is a rumour of a handsome soldier...